کوتاهی قامتم سخت عذاب می دهدم
و سخت تر عذابی است که آن یار بی هیچ نشانی به جان می کشد
کاش می شد زخمهای تازیانه ی انتظار را شمرد
تا سختی "در بودن "را فهمید
گویی زمان بار دیگر برای من تکرار می شود
سفرنامه قلعه رودخان
سفرنامه نویس:محمد کاظم حلاجی ثانی
www.hallajisani.com
یکبار دیگه سلام.سفر نامه ای که در حال خواندن آن هستید مربوط میشه به سفری خاطره انگیز ،سفری برای دیدن یک قلعه بیاد ماندنی و پر رمز و راز،سفری به استان سرسبز گیلان،سفر به قلعه رودخان .
آری چقدر زیباست ، صلابت رودخان،صداقت کوهسار و سادگی طبیعت قلعه رودخان.می گویند تخت گاه فرمانروایان گیلان بوده،برای خود زمانی بنایی بوده وتکیه گاه سربازانی بوده که با خنده فرمانروایان خود خندیده اند و با اشک آنها گریستند.قلعه ای در 16 کیلومتری جنوب شرقی فومن.نامش گرچه غریب است اما بنایش،رودش ،سربازانش و مردمش هرگز و هرگز غریب نیستند،آنها هویت و تاریخ نانوشته کتب های گیلان امروزاند.
برگه تقویم خانه ما نشانی ازآخرین صفحه روزهای مهر88 را نشان میداد و عقربه ساعت باز هم 8 صبح را زمان حرکت می دانست.اینبار سفری کاملا دانشجویی با دانشجویان جهانگردی دانشگاه پیام نور رامسرکه بحق برای خود دیگر استادی شده اند.اما نه در درس و کتاب ،در عکس و فیلم و غذا.از مسیر هر چه بگوییم کم گفته ایم ،مگر میشود مسافر جاده های گیلان باشی و متحیر طبیعت بکر آن نشوی؟؟؟ قلعه رودخان زیاد هم دور نیست مسیر ما آنقدرها هم طولانی نبود که بخواهیم بار کوله ها را زیاد کنیم اما چه کنیم از دست جنس مخالف که کوله هایشان گرچه سبک است اما خدا را شکر همین که خود را به قلعه برسانند برایمان کافیست.سربازان قدیم قلعه نمیدانند چوبه های درب را امروز اشتباه گذاشته اند ولی این را خوب میدانند که هر روز دوستدارانشان می آیند و می روند و از آنها یاد می کنند.
اما دیگر گزافه گویی بس است.قلعه رودخان کجاست ؟چگونه است ؟چرا میگویند برای خود تاریخی است؟با هم بیاییم قلعه رودخان را بشناسیم:
از آنجا که این قلعه تاریخی،در کنار رودخانه ای بنا شده به قلعه رودخان معروف است. این قلعه مهم تاریخی ،مدت ها تخت گاه و مرکز فرمانروایان گیلان بوده است و در ناحیه کوهستانی بخش علیای رود رودخان و در 16 کیلومتری جنوب شرقی فومن و در محدوده دهستان گوراب قرار دارد. دژی محکم و بزرگ است که بیش از پنج هکتار وسعت دارد.حیرت انگیز است بنا ، آنگونه که حمل مصالح تا آن ارتفاع چگونه انجام گرفته.این بنا به وسیله سنگ و آجر ساخته شده و در بخش آسیب پذیر و نقاط حساس ،سنگ با ملات ساروج بکار رفته ،اما در مسیر اطاق ها ،برج ها و سقف های گنبدی شکل از آجر،گچ و ملات ساروج استفاده شده است.ارتفاع دیوارها از 3 تا 10 متر متغیر می باشد.فرم کلی قلعه نا منظم می باشد و از دو بخش شرقی و غربی تشکیل شده است. وجود رودخانه و خصوصا جنگل های انبوه قدیمی از جمله موانعی بوده اند که سد محکمی در برار حمله متجاوزین به این قلعه محسوب می شدند.این قلعه در ادوار تاریخی به نام های هزار پله ،حسامی و سکسار نیز نامیده می شده.
بخش غربی:
شامل دروازه ورودی ،چشمه ،حوض،آب انبار و سردخانه ،حمام،آب ریزگاه ،شاه نشین و تعدادی واحد مسکونی که به وسیله برج و باروهایی محصور شده اند .قلعه کلا دارای دو ارگ و شانزده قراول خانه است،ارگ یا شاه قلعه در دو طبقه و از آجر ساخته شده ،قراول خانه ها ،به صورت دو طبقه با نور گیرها و روزنه های متعدد مسلط بر محیط اطراف است .در ورودی یا دروازه قلعه ،شمالی است و در دو طرف آن دو برج توپر بسیار عظیم ساخته شده است .چشمه آبی در محوطه قلعه دیده می شود که این آب را با گنگ(=تنبوشه)از ییلاق زرد خونی آورده اند.
بخش شرقی:
مساحت بخش شرقی کمتر از بخش غربی است ،بنا های موجود در آن بیشتر جنبه نظامی داشته و شامل دروازه ورودی جداگانه با دو برج بزرگ ،زندان ،تعدادی واحد مسکونی و در اضطراری (دزد در)است.در دیوار شمالی و جنوبی قلعه و در فواصل نا منظم ،برج هایی است که بالای آن ها برج های هشت ضلعی ،و در دیوار ها منافذ و ترکش هایی برای دیده بانی و ریختن مواد مذاب و تیر اندازی تعبیه شده است.از وجوه جالب توجه در معماری قلعه رودخان ،کاربرد طاق های جناغی و انواع مختلف آن و نیز طرح های آجر کاری و سنگ چینی است که نشان از دقت نظر سازندگان آن دارد.
سخن آخر:
با توجه به شرایط منطقه مهمترین موضوع ،چگونگی حفظ ساختار قلعه می باشد که رویش گیاهان هرز تهدیدی جدی برای آن محسوب می شود.نظر به ویژگی های استثنایی بنای قلعه رودخان و طبیعت بسیار زیبا و جذاب آن و با اقدام هماهنگ سازمان ها و ادارات دولتی ،امید است این بنای تاریخی به یکی از قطب های مهم گردشگری کشور تبدیل شود.
Present Iran was historically referred to as Persia until 1935 when Reza Shah Pahlavi formally asked the international community to call the country by its native name, Iran. But In 1959 due to controversial debates over the name, it was announced that both could be used
The First inhabitants of Iran were a race of people living in western Asia. When the Aryans arrived, they gradually started mingling with the old native Asians. Aryans were a branch of the people today known as the Indo-Europeans, and are believed to be the ancestors of the people of present India, Iran, and most of Western Europe
Recent discoveries indicate that, centuries before the rise of earliest civilizations in Mesopotamia, Iran was inhabited by human. But the written history of Iran dates back to 3200 BC. It begins with the early Achaemenids, The dynasty whose under the first Iranian world empire blossomed
Cyrus the Great was the founder of the empire and he is the first to establish the charter of human rights. In this period Iran stretched from the Aegean coast of Asia Minor to Afghanistan, as well as south to Egypt.The Achaeamenid Empire was overthrown by Alexander the Great in 330 BC and was followed by The Seleucid Greek Dynasty
After the Seleucids, we witness about dozen successive dynasties reigning over the country, Dynasties such as Parthian, Sassanid, Samanid, Ghaznavid, Safavid, Zand, Afsharid, Qajar and Pahlavi. In 641 Arabs conquered Iran and launched a new vicissitudinous era. Persians, who were the followers of Zoroaster, gradually turned to Islam and it was in Safavid period when Shiite Islam became the official religion of Iran
Since Qajar dynasty on, due to the inefficiency of the rulers, Iran intensely begins to decline and gets smaller and smaller. The growing corruption of the Qajar monarchy led to a constitutional revolution in 1905-1906. The Constitutional Revolution marked the end of the medieval period in Iran, but the constitution remained a dead letter.
During World Wars I and II the occupation of Iran by Russian, British, and Ottoman troops was a blow from which the government never effectively recovered.
In 1979, the nation, under the leadership of Ayatollah Khomeini, erupted into revolution and the current Islamic republic of Iran was founded
Throughout Iran's long history, in spite of different devastating invasions and occupations by Arabs, Turks, Mongols, British, Russians, and others, the country has always maintained its national identity and has developed as a distinct political and cultural entity
With a long-standing and proud civilization, Persian culture is among the richest in the world. Two and a half millennia of inspiring literature, thousands of poets and writers, magnificent and impressive architecture, live customs dating back to Zoroastrians over 3000 years ago, and other unique characteristics of the nation are rivaled by only a few countries.
Throughout the history, this grand treasure of Persia was gradually transferred to eastern and western nations. Iran's significant contribution into the world civilization in many respects is indispensable. Many ceremonies of the ancient Persians are the basis of western celebrations.
Among the ceremonies still being held are Norouz, Charshanbeh Suri, Sizdah Bedar, Yalda Night and Haft Sin. Sitting around Haft Sin and reciting Hafez, visiting family and friends during Norouz celebration, night of Charshanbeh Suri and jumping over the bonfire in the hope of getting rid of all illnesses and misfortunes, spending Sizdah Bedar, the 13th day of the New Year, in nature, are old interesting traditions coming from the Achaemenid Empire.
Another eminent feature of Persian culture is art. In fact culture and art are two closely interwoven concepts forming the soul of human civilizations. Persian exquisite carpets, subtle soulful classic music, outstanding tile work of unique blue mosques, old influential architectural style and countless brilliant literary works are famous in the world.
Persian or Farsi, is one of the world's oldest languages still in use today, and is known to have one of the most powerful literary traditions and potentials. Persian poetry with masterpieces of Saadi, Hafiz, Rumi and Omar Khayyam is well known around the world.
As all Persians are quick to point out, Farsi is not related to Arabic, it is a member of the Indo-European family of languages.
One more art intertwined with Persian culture, worth mentioning, is the art of cooking. Persian foods, accompanied by herbs and spices are product of the creativity, skill and patience of many generations of cooks.
Once you try a Persian food such as, Chelow Kabab, Ghormeh Sabzi, Gheimeh or Abgusht it will be hard for you to do without Persian food.
Undoubtedly, in this melting pot of civilization everybody will be overwhelmed by the beauties of the country and the depth of nation's colorful and lively culture.
Location
Iran is a country in southwestern Asia, located on the eastern side of the Persian Gulf. It lies at the easternmost edge of the geographic and cultural region known as the Middle East.
More than half of Iran's international border of 4,430 km is coastline, including 740 km along the Caspian Sea in the north and 1,700 km along the Persian Gulf and Oman Sea in the south. Bandar-e-Abbas is the largest harbor in the south of Iran located on the Strait of Hormoz, the narrow passage separating the Persian Gulf and Oman Sea through which tens of oil tankers are heading for various destinations in different corners of the world everyday.
Seasons
Iran is one of the few countries that have all four distinguished seasons. And at any time of the year, in each section of the country, one of the four seasons is visible. Iran's variety in terms of temperature, humidity and rainfall differs from place to place and season to season. Length of the seasons differs in different regions.
Natural Regions
One of the world's most mountainous countries, Iran contains two major ranges of mountains, the Alborz with the highest peak in Asia west of the Himalayas, Damavand (5671 m above sea level) and the Zagros that cuts across the country for more than 1,600 km extending from north west to the south east of the country. The peaks exceeding 2,300 m in these two ranges capture a considerable amount of moisture coming either from the Caspian Sea southward or the Mediterranean eastward.
Deserts of Iran
Iran is situated in a high-altitude plateau surrounded by connected ranges of mountains. The well-known deserts of Iran are at two major regions: 1) Dasht-e-Kavir, and 2) Kavir-e-Lut. They are both some of the most arid and maybe hottest areas of their kinds in the world.
The desert Pits of Iran
Kavir-e-Lut is the largest pit inside the Iranian plateau and probably one of the largest ones in the world. Kavir-e-Lut is a pit formed by broken layers of the earth.
Mountains of Iran
The whole area of Iran can be divided in to four parts: 1/2 mountains as one part, and 1/4 deserts and 1/4 fertile plains as the other part. There are two major ranges of mountains called the Alborz and the Zagros.
- The Alborz have been extended all the way from Azerbaijan to Afghanistan passing through the southern part of the Caspian Sea.
- The Zagros have covered a region from Azerbaijan to the west and SE of the country.
The highest peak of Iran (Middle East) called "Damavand", 5671m ASL. It is a burned-out volcano with a crater of 400m width. At times, sulfur gas ascends to the top and covers the peak like clouds.
Rivers of Iran
There is a vastly extended network of rivers in Iran most of which seasonally are filled with water. Some permanent rivers run from the Alborz or the Zagros to the Caspian Sea, Persian Gulf and Oman Sea. Some temporary rivers either run into a body of water or get dried before reaching any watershed.
Sea, Gulf & Lakes of Iran
Persian Gulf is situated at the south of Iran. It is almost 900km long from the Strait of Hormoz to Arvand Rud, the border river between Iran and Iraq. The Persian Gulf is one of the warmest bodies of water in the entire Middle East.
Oman Sea, situated at the south of Iran, connects the Persian Gulf to the Indian Ocean. With an approximate area of 903,000 km?, the Oman Sea is surrounded by Iran and Pakistan at the north, Deccan peninsula at the east and Arabia peninsula at the west.
Iran has got small ports at its shorelines with the Oman Sea like Chabahar, Gavater and Jask.
Since antiquity, the Strait of Hormoz and the Oman Sea have always been strategic waterways. Today, tens of gigantic oil tankers carry oil everyday from the countries in the region through this route to different parts of the world.
With an area of approximately 371,000sq.km, Caspian Sea in the largest body of inland water all over the world, which is situated at the north of Iran. Its neighboring countries are Iran at the South, Turkmenistan at the SE, Kazakhstan at the NE and north, Russia at the NW and Azerbaijan at the SW.
The Iranian shorelines are approximately 992km from the East to the West. The average level of of the Caspian Sea is 28m below sea level. There are geographic areas born at the Iranian shorelines because of the changes in the level of the sea, like Miankaleh Peninsula, Ashuradeh IslandHossein Qolly Bay, Gorgan Bay and Anzaly Bay.
There are permanent and temporary lakes in Iran depending on the amount of water in them in different seasons. Such as Uromiyeh Lake, Zaribar Lake, Hamun Lake, Parishan Lake and Maharlu Lake.